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Pentagoet Inn Castine
There is no consensus as to
which is the prettiest and least discovered of Down East
Maine’s coastal settlements, though we would certainly
nominate the exquisite and peaceful little town of Castine,
90 minutes north and east of Camden. Its great good
fortune is to be at the end of a solitary peninsula far
off Route 1, which means it isn’t on the way to anywhere.
Visitors don’t just drive through; they have to make a
decision to go there. In short, Castine remains a timeless
and innocent place not yet invaded by the usual corporate
logos of modern commerce.
Pentagoet was one of
Maine’s original summer hotels, back in the days when
wealthy “rusticators” would arrive by steamship.
Embellished with a grand turret and odd-angled gables, the
Victorian manor is trimmed by a delightful
wicker-furnished wraparound porch overlooking Main Street,
just a short walk from the waterfront. Today, the vintage
structure sports a new outlook on life under the aegis of
innkeepers Jack Burke and Julie van de Graaf. Jack
has amassed an astonishing array of black-and-white
photographs, lithographs and other memorabilia of historic
world leaders, which now covers the walls of the inn’s
utterly fascinating Passports Pub. Amid twirling
overhead fans and Malaysian rattan stools, you can sip a
drink under the gaze of Queen Victoria, Gandhi and even a
rare oil of Lenin found at a flea market in Tajikistan.
Jack proved to be a
charming host during our incognito stay, his refreshingly
enthusiastic and affable personality convincing us that he
intends to make this property a place to be reckoned with.
Although in some respects the inn does not offer the high
level of refined amenities we customarily search out for
Hideaway Report subscribers, it does possess a
solid unpretentious Maine comfort with enhancements being
made each passing season.
Spread between the main
house and an adjoining “cottage,” most of the 16 pleasant
guest quarters feature king-sized beds with down pillows,
well-chosen antiques, old prints and lace curtains.
Admittedly, the baths are a little old-fashioned and not
overly large, and there are no phones or
TVs, which may or may not be a disappointment depending on
your inclinations. The sunny and spacious “Turret Room” is
quite nice, its renovated marble bath containing a claw
foot tub with a shower.
Julie oversees the
candlelit dining rooms and Chef Gina Melita’s exceptional
cuisine. One evening we enjoyed a curried mussel and spinach
soup followed by a succulent pork shoulder, the
meal ending with a dark chocolate budino
—
a sumptuous Italian pudding
that should probably come with a health warning from the
Surgeon General! Other typical entrees include whole
grilled lobster, Stonington crab cakes, herb-roasted
salmon, a slow-cooked lamb shank and seared duck breast on
a Belgian endive salad. On warm summer nights you have the
option of dining alfresco on the beguiling flower-trimmed
verandah, which also provides a memorable setting for
leisurely breakfasts.
www.AndrewHarperTravel.com
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